In the United Arab Emirates (UAE), the rare occurrence of public protests unfolded during the United Nations' COP28 climate talks. This marked a departure from the norm in the autocratic nation, where political parties and labor unions are banned, and power rests in the hands of hereditary rulers in each emirate.

Human rights researchers from organizations previously barred from the country found entry for the first time in about a decade. However, there is a recognition that their criticism might jeopardize any chance of returning in the future. The UAE's strict laws tightly control speech, limiting the space for dissent, and most local media outlets are either state-owned or state-affiliated.

Despite these limitations, the UN and the UAE agreed to allow free expression during COP28. Activists, however, had to navigate strict guidelines, seeking approvals for their demonstrations. Demonstrators were prohibited from waving national flags or specifically targeting countries during the protests.

In a significant development, over 100 people gathered for a solidarity protest on behalf of Palestinians, near Israel's pavilion at Dubai's Expo City. This was a notable event given the diplomatic ties between the UAE and Israel, established in 2020. Israeli security personnel observed from a distance, and although there were arguments over smaller protests, the overall atmosphere allowed for a level of expression not typical in the country.

Critics argue that the UAE is using to enhance its international image, creating a misleading perception that the country respects human rights. This sentiment was echoed by Joey Shea, a researcher at Human Rights Watch, who emphasized the false image created by the limited allowance of protests.

The UAE's population is over 9.2 million, with only 10% being Emirati. The majority are expatriates, often low-paid laborers. Many remain silent, fearing repercussions to their livelihoods, as their visas and residencies are tied to their employers. Additionally, the diplomatic ties with Israel add complexity to expressing opinions on behalf of Palestinians.

The relaxed rules for also extended to allowing entry for individuals whom the UAE had previously banned. Around a decade ago, in the aftermath of the Arab Spring protests, the UAE cracked down on dissidents and blocked organizations like Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. Now, some of these individuals have been allowed entry for the climate summit.

While this represents a positive development, there is an acknowledgment of the tense environment. James Lynch, previously blocked from entering the UAE, highlighted the nervy nature of the event. The co-director of FairSquare noted the importance of diverse voices and perspectives but emphasized the underlying tension.

Security measures during COP28 were intense, with thousands of security cameras and widespread surveillance. Participants were effectively tracked from the moment they landed in Dubai. Activists expressed concerns about potential hacking of mobile phones and the overall atmosphere of mass surveillance.

Alice McGown, a Los Angeles-based activist, utilized the opportunity to protest at COP by dressing as a dugong and criticizing plans by the Abu Dhabi National Oil Co. to expand its gas operations into a protected area. Despite the light-hearted appearance, McGown's protest highlighted the challenges faced by civil society in speaking out against certain actions.

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