Why do we Indians wait for global brands to recognise our traditional crafts before we give them the respect they truly deserve? Why do we need validation from the West before we realise the value of something that has always been ours?

The recent example of Kolhapuri chappals being showcased at Prada’s Spring/Summer 2025 show in Milan shows exactly how little importance we give to our own artisans and crafts. The world saw the beauty and uniqueness of Kolhapuri chappals—but without giving any credit to the artisans who have been making them by hand for centuries. Instead, the sandals were shown as a luxury product, with no mention of India, no acknowledgement of Kolhapur, and no respect for the roots of this craft.

India ignored it, but capitalism didn't

In Kolhapur, more than 10,000 families have been making these chappals using vegetable-tanned leather, braided toe loops, and traditional designs. The sandals are a symbol of skill, history, and culture. In 2019, the Kolhapuris even got the GI (Geographical Indication) tag, which legally recognises that this product comes from a specific region in India. But what good is that tag when a global luxury brand can repackage the same design and sell it for ₹1 lakh, while Indian artisans still sell their handmade pairs for less than ₹1,000?

This is not just about money. It is about respect. When Dileep More, a third-generation artisan-entrepreneur from Kolhapur, saw the news, he wrote on LinkedIn:

"India’s iconic #handcrafted leather sandal, reimagined and now selling for over ₹1 lakh a pair. Yes, the same design that’s been handcrafted for generations by artisans in #Kolhapur… But there was no mention of India. No nod to the artisans. No acknowledgement of the cultural roots."

Dileep, who has a Ph.D. from IIT Bombay, came back to his roots and started Korakari in 2014. He now works with over 200 artisan families, trying to bring their work to the global stage—but with fair credit and fair price.

Cultural appropriation or global appreciation?

When a big international brand like Prada uses a traditional Indian craft and turns it into a luxury product without giving credit, it is called cultural appropriation. It’s not appreciation when there is no name, no history, and no respect attached to it. It becomes capitalism using culture for profit, and the original creators are left behind—unseen, unheard, and unpaid.

What’s even more surprising is how India suddenly wakes up. After the Prada show, Indians started talking about Kolhapuri chappals, sharing stories, and asking for recognition. But where was this excitement before? Why weren’t we celebrating Kolhapuris in our own cities and fashion shows? Why didn’t we push our government and brands to highlight these crafts proudly before the world did?

The sad truth is—we often undervalue what we have until someone from outside tells us it’s valuable.

It’s time to respect our artisans first

Kolhapuri chappals are just one example. This happens again and again—with Banarasi weaves, Madhubani paintings, terracotta pottery, and more. These art forms only get attention when they become part of global luxury trends. But the real creators, living in small towns and villages, still struggle to make a fair living.

If we want to protect our culture, we must value it at home first. We must buy from our artisans, support local businesses, push for fair pricing, and most importantly—give credit where it is due.

Capitalism may have put Kolhapuris in the global spotlight. But now it’s our responsibility to make sure that the spotlight also falls on the hands that made them.

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